Botanical Name: Jasmine auriculatum Common name: Juhi Appeara Read More
Botanical Name: |
Jasmine auriculatum |
Common name: |
Juhi |
Appearance/Color: |
Pale yellow to
brown |
Odor: |
Pleasant scent |
Origin |
India |
Source |
Flower, Seeds, Roots |
Method of Extraction |
Distillation |
Category/Type of
Attar |
Cool Attar |
The
word 'attar', 'ittar' or 'othr' is basically an Arabic word which means
'scent'; this in turn is believed to have been derived from the Persian word
Atr, meaning 'fragrance'. Attar (Arabic: ????)
also known as ittar is a natural perfume oil derived from botanical sources,
such as flowers (jasmine, rose, sandalwood and more), herbs, spices, or barks.
Oils can also be expressed by chemical means but generally natural perfumes
which qualify as Attars are distilled naturally. Once obtained, these oils are
generally distilled into a wood base such as sandalwood and then aged. The
aging period can last from one to ten years depending on the botanicals used
and the results desired.
A
large number of references to cosmetics and perfumes in Sanskrit literature were
found like in the Brhatsamhita is a 6th century Sanskrit encyclopaedia by
Varahamihira (505 AD – 587 AD). Cosmetics and perfumes making were mainly
practiced for the purpose of worship, sale and sensual enjoyment. Gandhayukti
gave recipes for making scents. It gives a list of eight aromatic ingredients
used for making scents. They were: Rodhara, Usira, Bignonia, Aguru, Musta,
Vana, Priyangu, and Pathya. The Gandhayukti also gave recipes for mouth
perfumes, bath powders, incense and talcum powder. The manufacture of rose
water began perhaps in the nineteenth century AD. The earliest distillation of
attar was mentioned in the Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita. The Harshacharita,
written in 7th century AD in northern India, mentions use of fragrant agarwood
oil. In ancient India, attar was prepared by placing precious flowers and
sacred plants into a water or vegetable oil. Slowly the plants and flowers
would infuse the water/oil with their delicate fragrance. The plant and flower
material would then be removed and a symphony of their aromatic beauty would be
held in the attar. These attars were then worn as a sacred perfume or to
anoint. Some of the first lovers of Attars were the Mughal nobles of India.
Jasmine attar was the favourite perfume of the Nizams of the Hyderabad state.
Attar figures into some of the romantic stories of a bygone era. Its patrons
included great poets like the legendary Mirza Ghalib. When Ghalib met his
beloved in the winter, he rubbed his hands and face with attar hina. In
Ain-e-Akbari, Abul Fazal, has mentioned that Akbar used attar daily and burnt
incense sticks (bakhoor) in gold and silver censers. A princess's bath was
incomplete without incense and attar. Avery popular attar with the Mughal
princes was ood, prepared in Assam.
South
Asian Attars may be broadly categorized into following types of flavour or
ingredients used.
Floral
Attars – Attars
manufactured from single species of flower are coming under this category.
These are:-
·
Gulab ex Rosa damascena or Rosa Edword
·
Kewra ex Pandanus odoratissimus
·
Motia ex Jasminum sambac
·
Gulhina ex lawsonia inermis
·
Chameli ex Jasminum grandiflorum
·
Kadam ex Anthoephalus cadamba
Herbal
Attars - Attars
manufactured from combination
of floral, herbal & spices come under this
category. Hina and its various forms viz., Shamama, Shamam –tul
– Amber, Musk Amber and Musk Hina.
Attars
which are neither floral nor herbal also come under this category. Attar
Mitti falls under this category and is produced by distillation of baked
earth over base material.
Attars
can also be classified based on their effect on human body such as
Warm
Attars' – Attars
such as Musk, Amber, Kesar (Saffron), Oud, are used in winters, they increase
the body temperature.
Cool
Attars' – like Rose,
Jasmine, Khus, Kewda, Mogra, are used in summers and are cooling for the body.
COMMON
USAGE
The
South Asian perfumes in the past were used by the elite, particularly kings and
queens. Also it is used in Hindu temples. Today it is used in numerous ways:
·
It is used by many people as a personal perfume,
particularly by Muslims due to absence of alcohol.
·
Perfumes have the application in pharmaceutical
industry.
·
Perfumes of Rose & Kewra are used in
traditional Pakistani /Indian/ Bengali sweets, for imparting flavour.
·
Pan Masala and Gutka is the largest consumer of
Pakistani/Indian/ Bengali perfumes. The reason for using it is its
extraordinary tenacity along with characteristic to withstand with tobacco
note. The perfumes used are Rose, Kewra, Mehndi, Hina, Shamama, Mitti, Marigold
etc.
·
Tobacco is smaller segment for perfume
consumption as compared to above industry. The perfumes used are mainly kewra
& Rose. Along with Pan Masala & Gutkha it contributes to more the 75%
of perfume consumption.
·
Betel nut is smaller segment for perfume
consumption as compared to above two industries. The perfumes used are mainly
Kewra & Rose.
TOXICOLOGICAL
INFORMATION
Safety Summary
·
Hazardous No Data
·
Contraindications Not Known
·
Cautions Not to be consumed Orally. External Use
Only
Organ Specific Effects
·
Skin corrosion / irritation: Not Specified
·
Serious eye damage / irritation: May have
reversible effects on the eyes, such as eye irritation which is totally
reversible by the end of observation at 21 days.
Systemic Effects
·
Acute Toxicity: Not Specified
·
Respiratory sensitization: Not applicable under
normal use.
·
Germ cell mutagenicity: Cause for concern owing
to the possibility that it may induce heritable mutations in the germ cells of
humans.
·
Carcinogenicity: IARH: No component of this
product present at levels greater than or equal to 0.1% is identified as
probable, possible or confirmed human carcinogen by IARC. ACGIH: No component
of this product present at levels greater than or equal to 0.1% is identified
as probable, possible or confirmed human carcinogen by IARC.
·
NTP: No component of this product present at
levels greater than or equal to 0.1% is identified as probable, possible or
confirmed human carcinogen by IARC.
·
OSHA: No component of this product present at
levels greater than or equal to 0.1% is identified as probable, possible or
confirmed human carcinogen by IARC.
·
Reproductive toxicity: Not specified
·
STOT-single exposure: Not specified
·
STOT-related exposure: Not specified
·
Aspiration hazard: Not specified
ECOLOGICAL
INFORMATION
·
Ecotoxicity: No data available.
·
Bioaccumulation: No data available
·
Mobility in soil: No data available
·
Persistence and degradability: No data available
·
PBT and vPvB assessment: No data available